 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
Locations: Umbria
|
|||||
Umbria has a turbulent history. In the Middle Ages the border between Tuscany and Umbria was on the frontline of the struggle between Pope and Emperor, and as a result majority of the towns and villages were fortified. A period of prosperity during the 12th and 13th centuries (which ended when the routes for trade and for pilgims travelling to the shrines of Assisi and Rome were diverted) led to art and architecture as fine as any in Italy. From then until recently, though, the area has been comparatively impoverished and isolated, and most of the ancient towns and villages - and indeed many aspects of the old way of life - have survived more or less intact. Large tracts of woodland are still largely untouched, and wild boar, truffles and porcini mushrooms are local specialities. Perugia, the capital city of Umbria, dates from Etruscan times and was frequently the object of brutal struggles for power. In 1540 it succumbed to Papal rule, and for three centuries was dominated by Italy's largest fortress, the Rocca Paolina. The castle was destroyed by the people in the rebellion of 1860, though the cavernous foundations and dungeons remain and form part of the system of escalators which carry visitors from the station and car parks up to the old part of the town. Perugia also houses the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria, which has a stunning collection of Umbrian Renaissance paintings. A short distance from Perugia is Lake Trasimeno which, despite its serene beauty, also has a bloody history. It was near Tuoro that Hannibal defeated the Romans, and the names of Sanguinetto, where a stream ran red with blood, and Ossaia ('the place of bones') are both derived from the slaughter of the Roman army. On the other side of the lake, Castiglion del Lago has a well-preserved castle dating from the 13th century, and a charming little piazza. A regular ferry service from Passignano and Tuoro (and less frequently from Castiglion del Lago) takes visitors to the two inhabited islands, Isola Maggiore, where there is a choice of bars and restaurants, and Isola Polvese. In the Upper Tiber valley itself the most important cities are Città di Castello and Sansepolcro, both of which have thriving commercial areas outside the mediaeval centre, and a lively, non-touristy feel. Large sections of the centres of both towns (like many others in this part of Italy) are closed to traffic, which makes it very pleasant to stroll in the backstreets or just sit outside a café and watch the evening passagiata. For art lovers, Citta di Castello is home to the Pinacoteca Communale, which has a fine collection of paintings. Sansepolcro, the birthplace of Piero della Francesca, has the Museo Civico, where you can see a number of della Francesca's most famous works. Assisi, with its plethora of historic churches, is within easy reach of Bastia Creti, as are Gubbio, Spoleto (which hosts a notable annual music festival), Orvieto, Todi and Foligno, to name just a few. Many smaller hill towns and villages are also well worth a visit, among them Monte Santa Maria Tiberina, Pietralunga and Montone, which was once an important regional centre and is still a particularly good example of a small fortified town. |
The Niccone valley is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful in this part of Italy. In terms of agriculture it is typical of the area, producing wine, maize, tobacco and sunflowers. | ||||||
